COAST TO COAST DIARY - 10th to 25th SEPT '05

Sat 10th
We flew from Newquay airport to Manchester via Bristol. Then took a taxi to St Bees, all of which worked out cheaper than going by train!

We arrived at St Bees around 2pm and booked into our B&B, Tomlin Guest House, nice welcome by owners and their dog and cat, nice rooms.

Had a very scrummy meal at the Queens pub, early night ready for the start of the walk tomorrow.


Sun 11th - Walk Day 1 - St Bees Circular - 9 Miles
We all woke up early, didn't sleep very well, all eager to get going.


Had breakfast at 8.30am, chatted to a Canadian couple, who were also doing the walk. Set off to the start of the walk, got a nice passing lady to take our photos at the C2C plaque and then met 3 chaps, who we dragged off to the sea edge to dip our boots in the Irish Sea, they took our photos, we took theirs. We all found a pebble to take on the walk!

Starting walking at 10am, lovey sunny and leisurely day. Walked up the coast and past St Bees lighthouse, could see the Isle of Man.



Chatted to 2 friendly chaps who were off to Cleator. Had a drink & lunch outside the Dog & Partridge pub in Sandwith, Lucy the collie dog decided to join us.

Followed the inland route past Bell House, where the path went off for tomorrow, followed path along, chilled out in the sun for a while, then back into St Bees. Looked around the church/priory and read about the St Bees man. Walked back down to sea, had tea/hot choc/ice cream. Collected bags from Tomlin Guest House and wheeled them all the way up the road to Stone House Farm, our B&B for tonight. Lovely B&B, big rooms and a bathroom next door! Had another very good meal at the Manor pub this time.


Mon 12th - Walk Day 2 - St Bees to Ennerdale YH - 18 Miles
Good nights sleep had by all. Breakfast at 8am, all packed up, bags left for Sherpa and walking by 9am.

Lovely sunny day again. Back up the track to join up from yesterday and under the railway bridge, along disused railway track to Cleator. Gathered lunch supplies and signed C2C book in Cleator shop. Onward and ever upwards to Dent, finally on the first top and cairn met 2 chaps (The Dent Men). Amazing views from the top, on a little bit further to the actual top. Long & steep down the other side to Nanny catch.



Met 5 ladies by the bridge, had lunch and a paddle, very cold, lovely peaceful place. Went on through the valley to the road, 5 ladies at the top having a break. Set off down the road to the right for quite a while, then realised we had gone the wrong way! Back tracked and then found Kinniside stone circle. Walked on through to Ennerdale Bridge, stopped at the Shepherds Inn for 2 x cream teas + 2 teas, which turned out to be very expensive!



Headed onto Ennerdale Water, what an amazing sight, the first real view of the fells.

Bit scrambly along the water edge, especially at
Angler's Crag and Robin's Chair. Crossed over
the Irish bridge and along the track towards the youth hostel. Just before we got there we spotted a red squirrel, what a perfect end to a perfect day.

Arrived at the hostel at 6.30pm, booked in by nice girl & her dog, really small room, no space for our big bags, left them downstairs, all very basic. Strange man (Brains) also staying. We had a 4 bedded room to share and he had a 6 bedded room to himself. Nice home cooked meal, pea soup, followed by pasta & beans & apple crumble.


Debbie & I went for a walk after to recci the start of Red Pike route, had to come back as it was getting dark and we didn't have a torch, let alone a jacket! Went to bed early, but no one could sleep.


Tue 13th - Walk Day 3 - Ennerdale YH to Borrowdale YH - 10 Hard Miles
Nobody slept well, breakfast at 8am. Set of walking by9am. Low cloud so we couldn't go up to Red Pike and the High Stile Range - gutted! Walked along to Black Sail Hut, weather by now raining and very windy. Blew in the door, made ourselves a cuppa and sorted ourselves out a bit. What a great place, definitely be back to stay here.



Set off, managed to lose Loft Beck in the thick fog, rain and wind. GPS was less than useless, found out later it was set up incorrectly and we were correct after all! We eventually sorted ourselves out and found the path towards Brandreath fence, what a relief.

We set off down towards Honistor Hause, had a rest and some lunch. Met up with some others coming from a strange direction, who had also been lost! Continued down to Seatoller, stopped for tea & cakes, lovely.

Onto Borrowdale YH, lovely new building, good showers and nice big room, huge drying room, which was handy. Meal at 7, all very nice. Had a bottle of wine after dinner and looked at maps for tomorrow, sorted out the GPS and calculated how much it was out by.


Wed 14th - Walk Day 4 - Borrowdale YH to Patterdale- 18.5
Good night sleep, alarm set early. Breakfast at 8, set off by 8.45. Dry day.

Rescued a sheep with his head stuck in the fence on the way to Rosthwaite, then him and his mate followed us for a little while, how cute!


Beautiful walk up by Eagle Crag. Climbed up the side of Lining Crag via water fall and then on up to Greenup Edge. Very wet, boggy and windy on top. Missed turn for Wyth Burn, but probably would have drowned in the bogs. Found route down to Grasmere, long walk down, but lovely.

Arrived in Grasmere around 4pm, popped into a shop to get quickest route, she was horrified that were were going on to Patterdale at this late in the day, which didn't do a lot for the confidence!



Found the route and then climbed very steeply up to Grisedale Tarn, bit worried it would get dark before we got to Patterdale, met two chaps near the top and they assured us we would be fine. Grisedale Tarn was lovely, people setting up tent for the night. Beautiful views of Helvellyn and St Sunday Crag. Down past 'Brothers Parting' and down, down and down to Patterdale.



Arrived at B&B at 7.15pm. got told of by snotty woman for being late and then bombarded with questions, when all we wanted was to be rescued and pampered - no such luck. Nice B&B, teddy bears on beds with chocs, ironing boards disguised as bears! Shame about the welcome.

Went over to the White Lion pub to eat, huge good meals. Sat next to the Canadian couple, Dent men and Borrowdale men were also there. Back to B&B for shower, then into the lounge for map sort out, weather going to be bad, so looked at lower route avoiding Kidsty Pike. Dent men had planted seed about going on the Ulswater Steamer, sound nice idea at the time, but that would be cheating - wouldn't it?

Off to bed, feet sore and all knackered.


Thurs 15th - Walk Day 5 - Patterdale to Shap- 19 Miles
Woke up with the alarm at 6.30, good sleep. Breakfast at 8, set off at 9 in the rain. Walked down to Glenridding, then realised we couldn't get across, back to Patterdale path - just a warm up to limber up!

Walked round Ulswater to Howtown, saw a red squirrel on the track just in front of us. Then across Moor Divock on bridle track to Bampton, lovely views, goodbye to the Lake District. Saw lovely fell ponies. Wendy suffering today, neck bad and feet probs.

Stopped at Bampton tea rooms for tea and cakes. Went on via fields (with large bull watching us) to Rosgill, then we saw Shap Abbey, and onto Shap.

B&B at the other end of Shap, passed Dent Men in the chip shop. Lovely welcome at B&B, not rushed, lots of room for wet clothes, and the bonus 2 collie dogs, one completely mad with a foot fetish! Rooms lovely and big, luxury. We all had long hot baths or showers.

Walked over to the Greyhound pub for tea. Sat with the Borrowdale men, had a good laugh and chat. Nearly walked out without paying - good try!


Fri 16th - Walk Day 6 - Shap to Kirkby Stephens- 21 Miles
Breakfast at 7.45, very nice, set off walking by 8.30. Nice clear, sunny but cold morning.

Set off from Shap, had to cross bridge over M6, scary business. Wendy having probs with feet today, blisters on both heels - ouch!




Followed a nice easy track, but kept going too long and missed the turning, had to go off piste across the heather, joined up with the real path and continued on lovely walk through lanes and farms. Then across Tarn Moor to Sunbiggin Tarn, lovely spot.





Walked through gorgeous valley and over a disused railway and Smaredale Bridge. Long haul up and then down through some field into Kirkby Stephens, all a bit weary by the end.

Arrived at youth hostel at 6.30, really good welcome, nice lady, good fun. The Borrowdale men already in and lurking in reception to cheer us in. Good sized room with en-suite, all had showers and then off to the pub.

Went to the Kings Head, good meal. Back to YH, made hot choc and chatted to Borrowdale men.


Sat 17th - Walk Day 7 - Kirkby Stephens to Keld- 12.5 Miles
Breakfast at 8, then went shopping! Had a good look round the walking shop and gathered supplies.


Headed off around 10.30, over Franks bridge, past a memorial wooden seat and then continued upwards on a slow gradual climb to Nine Standards. Had lunch in the shelter on the top with the Canadian couple, very cold and windy up there.
















Set off again, but ended up following other people off down the wrong track (lesson learnt) had to then head back for the top, found a great cairn with a cross on it. Debbie & I went for a recci, found a quarry and found our route and eventually joined up with the blue route, followed this boggy route down.

Carried on through fields after Ravenseat, onto Keld passing lovely waterfall. Arrived at youth hostel at 5.30, almost a record for us! Had showers and then our meal, ate with the Borrowdale men and the Canadian couple were also there.



Sun 18th - Walk Day 8 - Keld to Grinton Lodge- 13.5 Miles
Good breakfast, sat with Borrowdale men, found out they are Dave & Kevin.

Set off at 9, followed Dave & Kevin for a while, then they waited and took a photo of us, so we took theirs!

Some of today's walk followed the same route as the Herriot's Way, which we did 3 years ago. Passed Crackpot Hall and then onto Swinner Gill lead mines. At Gunnerside Beck Dave & Kevin turned off to a different route, fooled us for a minute, but we headed up into the Old Gang mines.




Had lunch by a bridge, loads of cyclists struggling up the lane and through the gate right next to us. Onto Surrender Bridge, then over the moors to Reeth, arrived at 4, had tea and cakes, then onto Grinton Lodge. Booked in and then put a load of washing on, definite lack of clean clothes!

Meal at 7, all very nice, off to bed up the creaky stairs.




Mon 19th - Walk Day 9 - Grinton Lodge to St Giles Farm- 14.5 Miles
Breakfast at 8.15, ready for the off at 9.

Met Grouse hanging about on the wall just down the road, even posed to have their photos taken! Down the hill and along to the bridge to join up with the route again, easy walking along the river, passed Marrick Priory, had lunch at Maske Church. Nice bright day, walked onto Richmond passed loads of'Applegates' (West, Low, High and East).

Had a look around the walking shops in Richmond, Debbie & Mum treated themselves. Had tea and cakes in expensive place, same one we stopped at on Herriots Way! Went to Boots for supplies, met Dave & Kevin and Kate (Dave's daughter). Met the Canadian couple in the square on the way out, last time we would see them.

Nice walk onto St Giles Farm, saw 3 deer, also we saw a magpie trying to catch a weasel. Wonderful welcome at the farm, huge rooms, both with baths. Had long soak in the bath, then down stairs for a lovely meal. Parsnip soup, chicken in leek sauce, cauli, courgettes and roast pots, followed by apple crumble - scrummy! We then had coffee by the TV with 'Otty' the big black dog. What a heavenly place, we all wanted to stay forever.


Tue 20th - Walk Day 10 -St Giles Farm to Ingleby Cross - 19 Miles
Great breakfast, the went and met 'Chaucer the bull' and his wife 'Yaku' and baby 'Ashes', eventually left at about 9.15, none of us wanted to leave.



Lovely sunny day, quite hot at times. Long flat walk through fields, farm tracks and lanes. Looked at the church at Bolton on Swale, tomb of oldest man. 3 miles of road walking. Saw swans flying and geese in formation! Stopped for lunch outside the pub at Danby Whiske, pub sign said Robin Hoods Bay 60 miles.





Met a whole herd of free range chickens, free ranging about the fields. Had to cross the A19, which was very scary, then down the hill into Ingleby Cross, arrived at the Blue Bell Inn at 5.45pm. Rooms OK, one very small, one very big with separate sitting room (think it was room 5). All feeling a bit weary and feet sore.

Over to the pub for a drink and then a meal. Met Dave, Kevin & Kate, they arrived at 6.30 and were all really tired out, had come all the way from Richmond. Early night after a long day.





Wed 21st - Walk Day 11 - Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank - 12 Miles
Quite a good nights sleep, breakfast at 8, not the best we'd had! Sat with Dave, Kevin & Kate and had a good laugh.

Set off at 9, easy day mainly following the Cleveland Way signs and a bit of the Lyke Wake Walk. Mugged by herd of pheasants in the woods! Saw lots of geese. Met the garden gnomes/pixie men for Washington State. Also kept meeting Dave, Kevin & Kate along the way.



All met up at Lord Stones Cafe at 1, Mum & decided to ditch the grotty sandwiches in favour of a chip butty, Wendy & Debbie had soup and a roll. Kate really suffering with her feet, lots of blisters. Debbie's camera decided to give up the ghost.



Followed the gnomes/pixies up the hill, at the Wainstones, Debbie went to explore and found 2 lost pixies, set them on the right path! Kate took the lower route, met Dave & Kevin along the way.

All met up at Clay Bank Top and phoned our B&B's, nice man came to collect us and took us down to Great Broughton, lovely welcome, big bags in rooms and carried rucksacks up for us. Lovely rooms, both had huge bathrooms. Home made cakes in the room. Had a lovely soak in the bath and chilled out. Chatted in the lounge to Geoff Connor doing East to West, had seen us on the chat room.

Met the crew down the Wainstone pub, all sat together, good meal. Had a really good laugh, (Mum now called 'Mumbellina'), our last night together, sad to say goodbye we will miss them.


Thurs 22nd - Walk Day 12 - Clay Bank to Lion Inn, Blakey- 9 Miles
Nice lazy start, breakfast not until 8.45. Had breakfast with Geoff Connor. Went over to the little village shop to see if we could buy a disposable camera for Debbie, no such luck.

Got back to the B&B and Geoff had left a disposable camera for Debbie, how wonderful was that?

The lady drove us back to the start of the walk, set off at 10 for a 9 mile stroll. Firstly up hill, then following an old railway track and the Cleveland Way, all the way to the Lion Inn. Had lunch in a sunny hollow.


Arrived at the Lion Inn at 3, very exposed blowy place, had a beer, looked at the menus and then rested up. Had trouble with the radiator in our tiny room, think they were trying to cook us alive. Had a nice meal, followed by a huge pud.


Fri 23rd - Walk Day 13 - Lion Inn, Blakey to Little Becks - 19 Miles
Bad nights sleep, too hot, had to prop the door open in the middle of the night. Weather foggy and windy.

Breakfast at 8.15, set off at 9, very misty, low cloud and chilly wind. Quite a lot of road walking, then onto moors and past Trough House. Started raining heavily, arrived at Glaisdale and rain stopped again, had lunch on Beggars Bridge, there was a film crew filming. Set off through the woods to Egton Bridge, crossed two lots of stepping stones.

Had afteroon tea stop at Grosmont, not a very good welcome in the cafe. Very long hill out of Grosmont, at the top could see first glimpses of the North Sea.


Crossed the moor towards Intake Farm, but lost the tract. Spent a while in boggy heath-land, eventually found the track again, but had a bit of trouble with a stubburn cow who wouldn't let us through, she then called all her mates, including the bull, time to retreat down the field and over an old bath. Found the track again, just then it started raining again, so we made a dash for what we hoped was Intake Farm. Lovely welcome, cuppa by the fire, whisked away our wet clothes and put them by the fire. Pixes were staying and the Amercian couple we saw at the Lion. Rooms lovely and comfortable, all their daughters cuddly toys and photos in the rooms.

Had a lovely meal, 9 of us sat around a big table, prawn cocktails to start, followed by beef cassarole, lasange, chicken casserole, cauliflower cheese and other veg, and then lemon meringue pie or apple pie for pud, delicious.


Sat 24th - Walk Day 14 - Little Becks to Robin Hoods Bay - 12 Miles
Good nights sleep, lovely sunny morning on the farm, think we'll stay. All had breakfast together. Had chat with all the cats and kittens outside. Set off on our last days adventure, down the track and lane, found some goats and then Debbie realised she'd left her map case behind, so went for an early morning jog!

Off again, down into Little Becks village, quiet sleepy little place, into the lovely woods, saw the Hermitage and then Falling Foss, then onto a boggy stretch.

Had lunch at 'Hairy Hands' pub at Hawsker (think it was really called the Hare & Hounds!), saw the Pixies and Americans leaving. Played with a collie dog called Jess that lived at the pub. Really started to feel that we didn't want to go any further, didn't want it all to end, only a few miles left to go.

Nice walk to the coast, could see along the coast to Whitby. Then actually arrived at the coast, really strange, definite urge to back track. Got our first glimpses of RHB, looked really quaint. Arrived at the top of the village, looked for our B&B, then walked on down to the sea, it was very busy and very touristy. Walked to the sea, grabbed a man to take our photos paddling in the sea. Left pebble from St Bees and collected another to keep. Had a drink to celebrate at the Bay Hotel and signed the C2C book. Had photos taken by the plague. Looked in all the shops on the way back up to the B&B.


Not a very good welcome, lots of do's and don'ts, room OK. Had a quick shower and then down to the Victoria Hotel for a meal, Mum treated us all to our meals and we had a bottle of wine to celebrate, got a chap to take our photo. Saw pixies, American couple and another foreign couple who had finished today.


Back at the B&B Wendy & Debbie gave me a lovely C2C card and a beautiful collie dog ornament (to match my Billy Dogs at home), to say thanks for booking the trip, he is now in pride of place on the kitchen shelf and every time I look at him I remember what a wonderful adventure we all had.


Sunday 25th - Whitby and Home Day
Not the best of nights sleep, bit cold. Nice breakfast, home made bread and jam, made your own toast.

Taxi picked up up and took us to Whitby, then took our bags away with them for the day.

Whitby was lovely, crossed over the bridge into the old part, looked around lots of little gift shops. Had a cuppa and cake in a nice tea shop.

Walked up steep cobbled street, passed yh to the Abbey, wondered around the outside paths, taking photos. Started to rain, dashed in the church, lovely inside. Back down the very slippery cobbles.

Back over the bridge and had lunch. Walked along the quay, bit smelly and touristy/busy. Did a circle round the glimpsed the 'Whale Bones'. Headed back for taxi, lovely live band playing Irish music in the square, listened for a short while, lovely finish to the day.

Taxi arrived with our bags, took us to Durham Tees Valley Airport. Booked in, had a bite to eat. Good quick flight, big 737. Unfortunately wouldn't let us off the plane at Newquay for a while. Eventually got off, collected bags and rang Kev (my husband) to come and collect us, home by 9.45pm.

Billy dogs went completely mad. Wendy & Debbie stayed for a quick coffee, then set off on their way home.
WHAT AN AMAZING HOLIDAY - THE BEST SO FAR!!